City of Cetinje

Situated in the fields of Cetinje, at the base of the Lovcen mountain, Cetinje is a treasure of Montenegrin cultural and historical heritage. It scent with the architecture from 18th and 19th century that comes from rich greenery of this small city. Cetinje is the capital of Montenegro and Crnogorsko - primorska Mitropolija. During King Nikola’s reign many embassies were built that give it today's specific looks. Two of the most representative buildings are the Monasteries of Cetinje and Biljarda. Cetinje Monastery was built in 1701 and even though the Turks destroyed it several times, the people built it up again. There are relics of Saint Petar of Cetinje, one the illustrious patrons of Montenegrin history. Cetinje Monastery represents the spiritual and political seat of the Montenegrin people. For the state purpose Njegos built Biljarda, a building (monastery) that took its name after the pool (billiards) that this exceptional poet, metropolitan, philosopher and statesman liked to play. Cetinje abounds in museums, as well as the Art Academy, parks and from Orlov Krs there is great view of the city and the mountain of Lovcen.

 

HISTORY

Ivan Crnojevic is considered to be a founder of Cetinje. He built a castle and a monastery in the plane below the famous Montenegrin Mountain Lovcen. According to the written data, by the end of the XVII century, down the plane flew River Cetina, so that part of the town was called by that river Cetinjsko polje (The field of Cetinje).

In Cetinjsko polje, at that time there used to be a small inhabited village, by which the later newly created town got name Cetinje. In the historical documents Cetinje is mentioned for the first time in 1440 year. In the middle of XV century (around 1450 year) a church known as Vlaska church was built in Cetinje.

About the development and the origin of the town, first notes were made at the end of the XV century, when Ivan Crnojevic, in the place that he chose to be his capital, built a castle in 1482 year. According to some documents, the castle of Ivan Crnojevic, the Master of Cetinje, was ruined before 1650 year, but the reasons and the names of those who have ruined the castle, as well as the response to the question why did they do it, the historians still haven’t made to find. There is an interesting fact, that two years after the building of the castle Crnojevic, in 1484 year, a monastery dedicated to the Holy Mother of God, was built, but its remains were not preserved.

After the disappearance of the State of Crnojevic, Cetinje still managed to keep the status of a political and religious center of Montenegro. With the parting of the dynasty Crnojevic, in Cetinje, more precisely, in the monastery of the Holy Mother of God, religious heads of the church continue to rule and govern the city. At that time the religious heads of the church were the most significant personalities in Montenegro.

Towards the end of the XV century, a great part of Montenegro is being governed by the Turkish conquerors. From 1499 to 1513 as a part of the Turkish administrative charter, larger part of Montenegro was annexed to the so called Skadar sanjak, but the areas of Montenegro like the Hills and the North West part of the state had the nominal freedom, while the under Lovcen Montenegro (whose center was Cetinje) managed to retain permanent freedom.
A very important function in the political sense of those years had a legislative body called “Opstecrnogorski zbor” (General Montenegrin gathering). The first gathering, of the legislative body, defined as a military-democratic parliament of the Montenegrin people from the free under Lovcen part of Montenegro, after the crash of the state of Crnojevic and was actually reshaped in a certain state organization. The first decision of the gathering was to offer the alliance to Venice in the war it fought with the Turks (1499. – 1503.).

In 1579. Opstecrnogorski zbor signs the first bilateral contract between, the under Lovcen Montenegro and the Venice, about the maintaining of the Venetian postal communication with Constantinople (Istanbul).

Almost the entire XVI century Cetinje was marked by the ruling of the Cetinje`s archbishopric. Archbishops and clergymen owned feud estates that belonged to free peasants. As the dilemma about the owner’s rights over the parcels was to be solved, in 1577. Cetinje`s archbishopric, with the intervening of the Pec`s patriarchate receives protection of the Turkish Sultan, but the dispute with the peasants is still solved with a compromise (the peasants become the owners or the leases), while the Archbishopric bends down to the fight for the independence and freedom.

In the period from 1603 until 1613 Cetinje archbishopric turns from the position of a passive observer of the events into an active political relationship. Archbishopric then takes active participation in defensive and liberating fights. In the more significant fights, as the fight with the Turks near Ljeskopolje (1603. and 1613.) was, Montenegrin army was led by the former metropolitan Ruvim II Boljevic. In those years the autocephaly action of the Montenegrin Orthodox Church institutionalized in the face of the Montenegrin archbishopric begins. Ruvim II – a spiritual ruler and political head of the church was at the head of Cetinje archbishopric from 1593 to 1637.

By the decision of the General Montenegrin gathering from Cetinje, Montenegrins (mainly soldiers and individuals from three anti – Turkish bastions – under Lovcen Montenegro, the Hills and across them Herzegovina’s Montenegro) in the period from 1645 to 1669 participate in the battles of Venice against Turkey. From Cetinje and from other parts of the free Montenegro, the help in the arms constantly came.

In the period from 1659. to 1662. the religious head of the church and the first personality in the General Montenegrin gathering and Montenegrin heads of the church gathering in Cetinje, was Visarion II Kolinovic, originally from a place called Ljubotinj, near Cetinje. However, two years before the end of the ruling time of the Visarion II (1633), on the bishop’s seat in the under Lovcen Montenegro, comes Ruvim III Boljevic from Crmnica. In the position of the first man of the Archbishopric, Ruvim III stays until 1685 year.
Montenegrins from Cetinje, as well as soldiers from other areas of the free Montenegro, in the period from 1684 – 1699 year, in the alliance with the Venetians, participate in the Morej war, against the Turks.

In the year 1685., at the beginning of May, according to the written records, the Turks manage to breach in Cetinje, when the monastery of Cetinje was set on fire. That was the only time when the Turks, with the use of weapons, after two centuries of persistent battles with the Montenegrins, have tried to establish the control over the only free part of Montenegro at that time.

In the period from 1685. until 1692. in Cetinje, one of the most meritorious Montenegrin metropolitans of the XVII century, Visarion III Borilovic, ruled.
The famous Turkish army commander, Suleiman – pasha Busatlija, on the 20th of September 1692., begins the second campaign of the conquering of the under Lovcen Montenegro. Turkish forces began their breech to Cetinje, from Crmnica and Podgorica, so by using the untimely and pretty loose alliance between the Venetians and the Montenegrins; the Turks manage, with the help of a Venetian squad to position themselves on Cetinje, and to order the mining of the Cetinje monastery. Then Montenegrin forces, in town and around it, are reorganized in a guerilla warfare way of battle and they make large losses to a significantly powerful Turkish army. The constant attacks from Montenegrins, especially at night, are forcing Suleiman – pasha, to leave Cetinje, and with his leaving disappears the idea of establishing control over under Lovcen Montenegro.

In the year 1694. on the position of the Montenegrin metropolitan of the Orthodox Church, and by that the first persona in the political life of the under Lovcen Montenegro, comes Savatije (Sava) Kaludjerovic, from Ocinici, near Cetinje. At that position bishop Sava stayed until 1697. when he is being substituted by the newly elected metropolitan Danilo Scepcevic, the founder of the bishopric and the dynasty of the family Petrovic Njegos. Bishop Danilo rules with the free part of Montenegro until the year 1735. The credits that go to bishop Danilo are numerous, so thanks to his wisdom and righteousness he managed to achieve the right of inheriting bishop’s title in his family. That status meant political primate in controlling of Cetinje, that is the under Lovcen Montenegro. Because of such a credit, the chroniclers write, that bishop Danilo Petrovic raised himself high, compared to the previous spiritual and secular rulers of free Montenegro.

The period from 1701. to 1704. in Danilo`s control is remembered by his sacrifice for the building of the new Cetinje monastery. Instead on Cipur, where until the mining and destroying by the Venetians and the Turks the seat of the metropolitans was, the newly built monastery was situated a little bit further and was dedicated to St. Holy Mother of God (Virgin). That holy object had to be renovated several times, because the Turks have demolished it three times (1712, 1714, and 1785).

The very beginning of the XVIII century, in historical sources, for Cetinje and the free part of the former Montenegro, remained marked as “crucial“, because of the event which is remembered by the “inquiry of the converts to Islam“ (The Montenegrins who because of some personal interest or fear converted to Islam and went on the side of the Turks). This event allegedly took place and had a crucial significance in the battle with the Turks, and the praises of it are sang in the famous work “Mountain Wreath“(Gorski vijenac) of the most famous Montenegrin bishop and literate Petar II Petrovic Njegos. Even though it is considered that “Mountain Wreath” relays on folk tradition, and has great literary value, that event can not be taken as a real proof of the existence of the “inquiry of the converts to Islam“.

Already in 1711., the administrators of the free part of Montenegro, from Cetinje, begin to establish foreign policy connections and collaboration between Montenegro and Russia. Since then, by the decision of Montenegrin representatives Montenegro becomes Russian ally in the battles against Turkey.
On 28th July in 1712., Montenegrins came back to Cetinje as winners from the battle with the Turks. A victory which they won was fought after the battle on Carev Laz, where the head commander of the Montenegrin army bishop Danilo was wounded.
In the same 1712. year, but on the 8th of August, the Turks once more storm on Cetinje. Under the leadership of Ahmet – pasha, the Turkish army breeches into the city and manages to set on fire the newly built Cetinje monastery. However, beside the great militancy and the weapon Turkish army stayed only 5 days on Cetinje field, after which, because of the frequent night attacks of the smaller groups of Montenegrins, they were forced to leave Cetinje, suffering, even during the retreat, significant military losses.

In the year 1713., on suggestion of bishop Danilo, in Cetinje the gathering of the General Montenegrin gathering is held, on which the representatives of the 12 most influential Montenegrin heads take part in. On that occasion an Earth (over tribal and general tribal) court for under Lovcen Montenegro, which apart from the court carried out other state businesses was founded. Today it is considered that by the act of forming the Earth court, for the first time in history of Montenegro, it can be spoken of establishing of a special “Folk Government“. For the President of that legislative body Montenegrin Governor Vukadin Vukotic was elected.

In October and November 1714. year Cetinje and the larger part of the under Lovcen Montenegro, found itself in the middle of the campaign of the Bosnian vizier Numan – pasha Cuprilica. Turkish campaign came from three sides, so the under Lovcen Montenegro, at that time suffered the hardest destruction in the two century fight with the Turks. Bosnian army left on Cetinje wasteland, sowing death, taking people for slaves and pillaging and burning households. Still, after a short period of time, Turks leave the under Lovcen area, not even trying to establish control.

In the period from 1714. until 1716 bishop Danilo resides in Russia, as a guest of the Russian emperor Petar Veliki, who, because of the sacrifice and alliance in the war with the Turks, gives Danilo two gramates – that is confirmations about the recognition of the alliance and about the constant financial help to Cetinje monastery, which should have been paid out every third year.
In the year 1717. the Venetian Senate confirms to bishop Danilo and his descendants the right of religious jurisdiction over the Orthodox population on the Montenegrin coast.

For the main mediator in the regulation of the Venetian – Montenegrin relations and for the first Montenegrin governor Vukadin Vukotic was named.
On the spiritual and political throne of Montenegro, with the seat in Cetinje, came bishop Sava Petrovic in the year 1753. He holds the political and church control, but already in the year 1750. he leaves the political helm to a younger cousin, Bishop Vasilije Petrovic. Bishop Sava rules until the year 1781. Until the death of Bishop Vasilije Petrovic – in 1766. year, the foreign policy of Montenegro developed in a very dynamic way, and at that time the political reputation of the state was raised significantly. The same statesman in the year 1752. manages, because of the loyalty and alliance with Russia, to get affinity of that great empire, which results with the patronage of Russia over Montenegro, and since that event Montenegro is found under the direct protection of Russia.
A very important event for former Montenegro, but mostly for the capital Cetinje, happened in the beginning of December in 1756. year, when the Montenegrins won a victory over the numerous Turkish army of the Bosnian vizier Camil Ahmet – pasha, in the village Predis, in a place called Bjelice close to Cetinje.

After his return from his second voyage through Russia, bishop Vasilije, brings to Montenegro a Russian colonel, who on his return to his homeland, makes a very unfair report about the state and relations in Montenegro, which caused the cooling of the relationship between the official Cetinje, meaning Montenegro, and Russia. Even though once again in the year 1756. Bishop Vasilije resided in Russia, his intention was to deny the lies from the report of the Russian colonel, but death stopped him, so he was buried, with great honors and on the expense of the Russian Empire in the Blagovjetsanska Church in Petrograd, where his remains still are.

For the new ruler of Montenegro, in Cetinje, on the General Montenegrin gathering in October 1767. Scepan Mali, in history better known as “false emperor“ was elected. He was elected for the political leader of Montenegrins, because he allegedly was the Russian emperor Petar III. Still, later it was found out that the real Russian emperor was killed in the time of the arrival of Scepan Mali on the throne of Montenegro, and in that way his false identity was discovered.

During the period of ruling of Scepan Mali, the title of the governor was established in Montenegro. For the first man with that title on the General Montenegrin gathering held in Cetinje in 1770. year, Jovan Radonjic was proclaimed, whose descendants later inherited the right to vote for that function. In September 1773. year Scepan Mali is being killed while sleeping by a Greek man, while in the year 1781. on the metropolitan throne of Cetinje a pretty incapable and old bishop Arsenije Plamenac was placed. He ruled only until the year 1784. when Cetinje and the former Montenegro began to be governed by the most famous person in the Montenegrin history by the metropolitan Petar I Petrovic Njegos.

His ruling the historians have described as a very wise and successful one. Metropolitan Petar I was a respected spiritual bard, a gifted army commander, a recognized diplomat, and a great reformer. During the period of his reign Montenegrin state for the first time got written laws, and metropolitan Petar I Petrovic is also famous by a very important decision about the unison of the hill tribes with the under Lovcen Montenegro, to which Cetinje belonged. The same ruler as the most respected literate of that time significantly influenced the development of literature in former Montenegro.

Even though the invasion of the Turks on Cetinje and under Lovcen Montenegro, was very hard and during the period of reign of Bishop Petar I Petrovic, only the Skadar deputy, in history better known as Mahmut – pasha Busatlija, in June 1785. year, during the Petar`s residing in Russia, managed to significantly damage and burn Cetinje and the surrounding areas. Turkish army has also set on fire Cetinje monastery, and after several days of staying in Cetinje, left the town, directing itself towards the Coast, where they have pillaged Pastrovici.

The name of Mahmut – pasha Busatlija, is connected with the following events that took place around Cetinje and wider area of under Lovcen Montenegro. After a great defeat of the Turkish army, by the Montenegrins, in the place called Martinici (Bjelopavlici) in July 1796. year, Mahmut – pasha, in the September of the same year wishing to definitely conquer the free territory of the former Montenegro, once again attacks and a, for Montenegro crucial, battle on Krusi (Ljesanska nahija) happens, in which Turks were finally defeated and Mahmut – pasha, murdered.

Immediately after the battle, with a victory won, Montenegrins come back with a triumph to Cetinje, where a solemn welcome was organized. With the battle on Krusi, Montenegro creates a historical turn point in further Turkish – Montenegrin relations, and the free territory of Montenegro, was widened by the annex of the places called Piper and Bjelopavlici.

On the folk parliament in Cetinje, in October 1798. year, the Legal Code of Petar I was passed, while the amendment of that document came in 1803. year in the monastery Stanjevici near Budva.

In Cetinje in the year 1805. Russia established the first diplomatic representative office, so that period is considered for a very significant for the promotion of Cetinje in a diplomatic residence.
Metropolitan Petar I Petrovic, dies in Cetinje in 1830. He is buried in the church of the new Cetinje monastery, and in the history of Montenegro, that statesman remained remembered by his great contributions in which he supported the implementation of Montenegro in Europe, opening of schools, gaining the international subjectivity of the state. He also remained remembered by his merits in state and religious work, and because of that he is remembered by the name of “St. Bishop“.

On the throne of the Montenegrin church and state in the year 1830. comes Petar II Petrovic Njegos (1813. - 1851.), to the contemporary history known as a great philosopher and a poet. Beside his great contribution to literature, and promotion of Montenegro in various countries of the world, during the period of the reign of bishop Petar II Petrovic Njegos or bishop Rade Tomov, in Cetinje in the year 1831. a Controlling senate of Montenegro and Hills was elected. That legislative body, better known as Big court (Velji sud), is made of 12 most respected heads of the former Montenegro, and it has the function of legislative, executive and court power. In the same year Montenegrin troupes have directed themselves from Cetinje in an, unfortunately, unsuccessful attack on Podgorica, which was held by the Turkish conquerors.

In the year 1833., after Petar II became a bishop, in Cetinje the Law of ancestry was passes. It contained 20 articles, and in the same year the Montenegrins again perform an unsuccessful attack on Podgorica.

During the period of reign of bishop Petar II Petrovic Njegos, Montenegro had a very noticeable role in the diplomatic circles of former Europe.

The period from 1837. to 1850., is remembered for an extremely outstanding literary work of Petar II Petrovic Njegos. That great ruler was a frequent guest of Austria and Russia. In 1844. he visited Vienna, in 1845.year he published his work “Microcosm Rays“(Luca mikrokozma), and in 1847, his most famous work “Mountain Wreath“(Gorski Vijenac). In the year 1851 Njegos`s work “False Emperor Scepan Mali“(Lazni car Scepan mali) was published.
For that period of government it is important to mention also the year 1835., better known for the pillage of Zabljak by the Montenegrins, and also the battle on Grahovo in 1836. year.

The period of reign of the great thinker and philosopher PetarII Petrovic Njegos, the history of Cetinje apart from the sudden progress of education, is also known by arrival of the fist pool table in Cetinje.

In the year 1838. with the financial help of Russia, in Cetinje, a first residential building for Bishop Rade Tomov (Njegos) is being built, and even today in its facilities there is the pool table for playing. The famous pool is brought from Vienna in 1839. year. It is placed in the largest room of the billiard parlor. As Njegos was a very good pool player, he would express his skill usually by playing with respectable guests, on the big table, whom almost always he beat.
On the throne of Montenegro, in Cetinje, in October 1851. comes Danilo I Petrovic Njegos. Already the next, 1852. year, the Montenegrin Senate proclaimed the state a Principality, and Danilo officially became a Prince, which was immediately confirmed by Russia. In the year 1853. an agreement about the end of the war between Montenegro and Turkey was concluded, and the same year Prince Danilo visited the Austrian Emperor.

In the year 1855. Prince Danilo made a set of reforms in Montenegro: the register of population, reorganization and formation of the army, the Legal Code made of 95 articles was passed and a battle unit named Garda (Guard) was established.

In 1856. year in Cetinje news came from Paris, that the expectations of Prince Danilo, that Montenegro should become and independent state did not come true. That was supposed to be ended formally on, Paris peace congress, which was held that year.

In May 1858., under the leadership of the Governor Mirko Petrovic, brother of Prince Danilo, Montenegrin army comes back to Cetinje, in the festive mood, because Kolasin was destroyed and then occupied, as well as certain summer pastures on the Mountain Sinajevina.

On the August 1st 1860. year, in Kotor, Prince Danilo Petrovic was killed. The executioner of the assassination was Todor Kadic. After the death of Prince Danilo Petrovic, the Montenegrin throne in Cetinje was given to his nephew Nikola Mirko Petrovic (1860. - 1918.). During the reign of King Nikola, Montenegro gained even more importance in all fields of social life, and his wise politics promoted Montenegro as a modern European state, while the capital Cetinje at the end of XIX and the beginning of the XX century, became very important center of many world diplomats, politicians, literates, authors who write about their travels and many others. New schools are being opened, new hospitals; the military advances, the educational work is enriched with the established office of the folk education in the year 1860.

In September 1862 Montenegro makes peace with Turkey, which contributes largely to the stabilization of the life in the state, in Cetinje, as a capital city, as well as in the center of the Kingdom Montenegro. In Cetinje, in the period from 1863. to 1868., it is intensively being worked on making literate citizens, education of children and the adults. A temporary seminary is being opened, the magazine “Orlic“ (Little eagle) is being published, while the work of the former Montenegrin fine arts creators take part in the world exhibition in Moscow. In year 1886. in Cetinje a contract between the King Nikola and the Serbian Prince Mihailo Obrenovic, considering the collaboration between Montenegro and Serbia in their fight for liberation, was signed.

The relations between Montenegro and Turkey were significantly disturbed in 1874, and the motive was the revenge for the murder of Jusuf Mucin Krcic, in Podgorica. Already the next year 1875., in Cetinje came the news of new war broking out between Montenegro and Turkey. The war was declared in Jun 1876., with the battles which occurred on Vuciji dol and Fundina.
For Cetinje and the Kingdom Montenegro, the most significant moment took place in the year 1878., when on congress in Berlin, Montenegro receives the recognition from the countries which until then did not recognize Montenegro as an independent state. The territory of the new state was widened to 9.476 km², with the towns: Podgorica, Bar, Kolasin, Spuz, Plav, Gusinje, Savnik, Zabljak and a part of Piva.

More significant reforms in the area of schooling and education began in 1879. when the first Legal code about the general school duty was passed. The basic education in that way becomes obligatory, liberated and free of charge. In 1880. the Cetinje high school begins to work; in 1881. the church reform has been conducted, that is, the Cetinje parish was reorganized, while in 1884 the first Cetinje voluntary society was formed, as well as the Montenegrin theatre.
In 1888., Baltazar Bogisic publishes the first Cetinje property Legal code of the Principality of Montenegro. In 1840., in Cetinje the 400 years of the printing office Crnojevic is being celebrated. All the taxes and payments in Montenegro were done with the hello of the new currency – perper, while one year later (1906), a more active engagement of the parties in political life of Montenegro began – the Montenegrin folk parliament began to work, and in the parliamentary life of Montenegro parties began to participate: folk men, clubmen and independents.

1907. and 1908 were especially critical for the former Montenegrin president Nikola I, because in those years the opponents of the King have tried, two times, to kill him. In the year 1910. Montenegro was proclaimed  Kingdom, and on Cetinje for that occasion a celebration was held for the golden jubilee, the 50 years of the ruling of King Nikola in Montenegro.

In 1912.for Cetinje and Montenegro very hard time begins, because the state goes into the Balkan war. With the victory in Balkan wars (1912. – 1913), Montenegro expands its territory to 14. 443 km², and liberates 10 cities. Also, in the same 1913, Montenegro on the side of Serbia, participates in the war against Bulgaria. Those events for Cetinje and the state as a whole represented the announcement of the Ist World War, in which Montenegro, in 1916. participating on the side of Serbia, started the war against Austro – Hungary. In 1916. there comes to a great turnover in Montenegro, Montenegrin army surrenders, and because of the circumstances in the country, which inviolably affected the ruler, King Nikola Petrovic goes to exile.

Even though Montenegro managed to liberate itself from Austro – Hungary, immediately after that political event better known as “Podgorica`s parliament”, which was held in November of 1918. it will have a decisive impact on Cetinje as a former capital of Montenegro, as well as the state as a whole. On Podgorica`s parliament, the territory of the state Montenegro was annexed to the state of Serbia and the dynasty Petrovic – Njegos immediately dethroned. Towards the end of 1918. and the beginning of 1919 year, in Cetinje and on the wider area in majority parts of north Montenegro, an event better know as “white terror” (bijeli terror),  occurred, when “in blood” the Montenegrin national revolution was  smothered (crushed), which for a goal had the rebellion against the annex of Montenegro to Serbia. Under the motto “For right, honor and freedom of Montenegro” on the 6th of January, the Christmas uprising was started. Its starters were the members of the Montenegrin Green party, but their efforts to restore the reputation and function to the Kingdom Montenegro, failed immediately, because with the Versailles contract in Paris in 1919. the new state on the Balkans – Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians was recognized, and by that the annex of Montenegro to Serbia was also recognized. That year officially the state of Montenegro ceased to exist, and the capital Cetinje to loose its importance.

The period of the reign of King Nikola, will remain in history of Montenegro and Cetinje remembered not only by and extreme political maturity and wisdom of a ruler, but also by a great development of Montenegro. The period of his reign marked a positive and sudden development of Montenegro with the diplomatic circles in the former Europe. At that time Cetinje is being composed architectonically and urbanistically, so the first legations of the foreign countries are being built: Austro – Hungary, Russia, Italy, England, France, Bulgaria and many others. The buildings, in which the legations of the leading European countries were seated, exist even today. In some of then culturally – historical institutions of Montenegro are placed, and some of them are waiting to be renovated or adapted.

In 1921, King Nikola, the ruler of Montenegro until 1919, dies in exile, while in Cetinje the heir of the throne Danilo Petrovic, abdicated in benefit of his nephew Mihailo, who is considered to be the last Montenegrin king, without his kingdom.
The influence of Serbia and its politics on the events in Montenegro and Cetinje was constant until the World War II in 1941. year, when on 12th of July, Montenegro under the leadership of the Communist party of Yugoslavia, was proclaimed a sovereign state.

Already near the end of 1941. year, Cetinje is being taken by the Italian occupying army, the town lives in fear and under the command of the new occupiers. Organized in smaller saboteur groups people from Cetinje during the World War II were trying in various ways to stand up to the enemy.
It was like that until the liberation of the town in 1944., when the troupes of partisans and the rebels from the area of Cetinje brought freedom to the town – a hero, as Cetinje is called today.

In the Republic of Montenegro, after the World War II, Cetinje is no longer the capital city of that Republic, but its functions are taken over by Podgorica. Since then, and until 1989. Cetinje is more a business, historical, and cultural center. However, by the breaking out of the war in the area of the former SFRJ (Socialistic Federative Republic of Yugoslavia) in 1991., those functions too slowly begin to dye. With the ending of the work of big economic enterprises like holding company “Obod”, transport enterprise “Bojana”, shoe factory “Kosuta” etc. Cetinje becomes poorer and poorer and its former reputation and significance disappear.
Even though in the last years something has been done for the revitalization of the vital functions of the town, Cetinje is still considered to be a town of rich history and culture but its social and economic life is still not well developed.

 

LEGEND

The story and the legend about a certain town, is the story from its history, its culture, from the past, which observes the every day life in various ways and from various angles.

With its very position, Cetinje is an extraordinary place. Every stone, every foot or culturally – historic monuments of the town are unique stories, and they make Cetinje live in legend, and through the legend. Even though that world famous town is mentioned as one of the most freethinking places on the Balkans, which through history it really confirmed, hardly in the literature you can find an authentic legend connected to the origin of the town, apart from one, a long time ago made story, which by is thematic is completely usual, and is more and more used in advertising purposes, and which, someone said  “ is an ordinary story, about a many centuries old capital, about a little but proud town, situated in the foot of the mountain Lovcen, where the east stops and the west begins”.

It is a story about Cetinje`s rains, about people who in spite of everything through which they’ve been through history, are always smiled and ready for a joke. In short, that story is titled “The Valley of Gods” (Dolina Bogova), and like everything that is created by the Almighty, it is made as something very interesting, effective and divine. That legend that in more recent time is often used as a story about the origin of town Cetinje, goes like this:

“Once upon a time in the ancient times God began to create Earth, by thinking for a long time about what he’s creating, as well as about people who will live on that Earth. So he shared nations across the Earth by giving every nation the space he intended for them. When he was near the end of his work, and happy with what he has done, the angels approached to him and submissively told him:

“Dear God, there is one small nation left, but hard working nation, worthy of your attention! At that moment the God’s eyebrows creased and it started to thunder everywhere. A great storm started. In the sea big waves raised, and on the Earth began to blow hard winds. After that, at once, everything stopped, and the God said: “What I have left for myself and what I have named Montenegro let that be the home for that people. Let that people be called Montenegrins, and the place that I am standing right now let it be called Cetinje, and all those who are born in Cetinje let them be Gods, and Cetinje let it be the eternal valley of Gods”.

So by that legend Cetinje got its name. Those who call themselves the residents of the valley of Gods, often speak about their town, in which people live proudly, with their head raised up high towards the sky, the creator, towards majesty.
That old story about the origin of the town encircled with the rocky massifs of the Mountain Lovcen, the curious ones can get to know if they visit Cetinje in various seasons of the year, when the winters are pretty cold, summers fairly warm, falls mild and springs the most fragrant while the linden trees from Cetinje blossom. The only thing that is always the same are the rains, the stubborn Cetinje rains which flow and flow, through the wide boulevards, down the streets which used to be the battleground, or from which soldiers went to wars or great fights.

In Cetinje, it often happens that from the strengths of the impact of the lightenings and thunders and rains that are constant, it gets so dark, that certain parts of the day can seem so dark as if it was night, and then everything stops the sun comes out and shines over the mountains, widening its yellow beams on just washed hills and mountains under Lovcen. Those special panorama events effectively complement the mythical guesses about the origin of the town or about the creation of legend about it.

Everything in Cetinje entered in a legend, because the town itself is a legend that keeps memory on great founders of this town, on great army commanders, spiritual leaders, poets, philosophers, painters and great artists, on the proud of Cetinje people that through centuries resisted the enemy, on its churches, monasteries, printing shop, museums, libraries, mausoleums, monumental buildings, embassy buildings, academies…

Every stone, every foot is turned into a legend that through centuries lives a simple but divine life. Cetinje represents an inexhaustible inspiration to every artist, successfully resisting the time, space and transition.

 

YOU MUST VISIT

We suggest the following top 5 places in and around Budva that should definitely be visited:

NJEGOS`S MAUSOLEUM
IVAN`S RIVERBEDS AND NJEGUSI
CETINJE MONASTERY,
NJEGOS`S BILLIARD POOL HALL
RIVER CRNOJEVIC
NJEGOS`S MAUSOLEUM
 

NJEGOS`S MAUSOLEUM – the most impressive and very mystic destination, of the indescribable natural beauty, not only of Cetinje but also of Montenegro in general, is by all means the mausoleum of Petar II Petrovic Njegos on the mountain Lovcen. Up to the mausoleum you can come by car from Cetinje, which is 13 kilometers away, passing through a certain climate spa or more and more famous rest home Ivan’s riverbeds. Apart from the beauty and the natural surrounding in which you will enjoy driving through the beech, oak and linden tree forests, you will equally be occupied with the freshness, that is, with the translucent air, which will welcome you and immediately disperse the felling of sultriness and summer heat, which is characteristic on the Coast. The mausoleum is situated in the Jezerski vrh (Jezerski peak), in the height of 1 660 meters, and it officially represents the highest mausoleum in the world. To the foot of the mausoleum leads the asphalt and pretty narrow road, which curves in the height, and when you reach the destination – to the mausoleum you can see the plateau and a pleasant restaurant in which you can find a billet shop and a mini souvenir shop, in which you can buy the tickets for visiting the mausoleum and also you can find various Montenegrin souvenirs. In the same place you will be awaited by the custodian or a guide who will unselfishly provide you with abundance of information about the bishop and the ruler of Montenegro Petar II Petrovic Njegos, about Montenegrin history and freethinking Cetinje. The road from the beginning plateau for climbing on to the Njegos`s mausoleum is made of numerous stony stairway (from the foot up to the entrance into the mausoleum there are 461 staircases), and one part of the path leads through a well done and lighted marble tunnel.

During the construction of Njegos`s mausoleum, for 5 years as it took for the building of that marble giant, as the architects usually call it, several tones of stone was spent. The creator of the idea for the construction of the Njegos`s mausoleum was the world famous sculptor, originally from Croatia Ivan Mestrovic. The mausoleum is situates on the place of what used to be Njegos`s chapel, in which Petar II Petrovic Njegos was buried earlier. The most beautiful meeting of land and sea, as in his time and English poet Lord Byron wrote, you will experience when from the peak of Lovcen you look down onto the foothill that is towards the Montenegrin coast or Bokokotorski bay. If the weather is nice and suitable for recording and photographing, from Lovcen you can se parts of Italy, Albania as well as parts of some mountains in Serbia.

The visits to Njegos`s mausoleum are more frequent during the summer period, especially for May to October. During that time Lovcen is visited by thousands of domestic and foreign tourists, who become dumb in front of the unordinary view which can be seen from Lovcen and that goes over Kotor bay, open sea, Skadar Lake, on the distant Prokletije or on to the capital Cetinje. Beside the beautiful view in which tourists enjoy observing the Bokokotorski bay and the Montenegrin coast, from Lovcen you can make interesting photographs which will be the best reminder of your visit to the highest mausoleum in the world. In the lobby of the Njegos`s mausoleum there are two stone caryatides: a mother and a daughter (or Njegos`s mother and sister – as some historians think), that weigh 7, 5 tones. In the façade of the mausoleum Njegos`s grandiose figure made out of the best and finest stone, weighting 28 tones is situated and above it a grey eagle with spread wings. Down in the crypt is Njegos`s grave. The eternal resting place, that is, a marble sarcophagus with the remains of the greatest philosopher and poet of Montenegro of the XIX century is built from the fine white marble. From the vaulted crypt golden kernels shimmer. For the decoration of the vault 18 kg of gold was spent, which was dispersed, into 27.000 kernels, all over the walls of the crypt. On the tombstone it is written “Njegos 1813. – 1851.”

From the entrance into the mausoleum, turning right, it is nice to walk down the stone path which only has several meters to the stone Montenegrin threshing floor, that is, the place which is built in a circle, with a stone rim for sitting, on which folk parliament, gatherings were organized, on which important decisions were brought, and where folk dances were performed. Climbing up to the peak of Lovcen, because of the numerous steps, to many is a great effort, so for a while you can rest, making mini pauses and do the sightseeing. On return, going down the stairs, you can choose to visit a nice restaurant “Vidikovac” (Observation deck), from which you have a great view on the slopes of Lovcen. For the visit of the Mausoleum in Cetinje you need a firm determination, a little bit of good will and several important information about the destination that you intend to visit, all the rest you will experience when you get on Lovcen.

From the direction of Budva or towns on the Coast, the easiest was to get to Lovcen is by your own car, rent – a car, taxi or bus – in organized tourist tours, that as excursions are sold by almost every tourist agency from the Montenegrin coast. Also, driving from the way of Ivan’s riverbeds towards Lovcen, you can come by car over the saddle Krstac, on the way Kotor – Njegusi – Cetinje. However, the funs of the recreation in nature and those for whom “time is not money” on Lovcen or for a visit of Njegos`s mausoleum they can go on foot. Especially if you are a mountain climber or you are engaged in fast walking, that for you going on foot from Budva, Tivat or Cetinje and Njegusi to Lovcen will not be an obstacle for you. On the mentioned section of the road there are marked mountain tracks and various village roads.

 

IVAN`S RIVERBEDS – on the 12th kilometer on the road from Cetinje to Lovcen there is a place called Ivan’s riverbeds, whose name is connected to the founder of Cetinje Ivan Crnojevic, in history better known as Ivan – beg. More specifically, the name is related to the way of a stream; the waters that come out from Trestenik, are collected into one stone reservoir, which is then over flown into the through made of, by the legend, beech logs, which were built by Ivan – beg Crnojevic. Ivan’s riverbeds are surely, the most popular tourist vacation area, which during the summer is extremely well visited almost every day, and during the other periods of the year, always when the conditions allow that, or when the slopes of the vacation area are covered with snow. Ivan’s riverbeds are a part of the National park Lovcen and they represent one of its most beautiful parts. They are situated on the east side of the Jezerski peak, in one meadow plateau surrounded by forest. There is also a famous rest home for children, which is opened even in the winter months. Above the rest home there is a skiing path, on which in the winter period a ski lift is being set. The lodgment has the ambulance for giving health services; it has a restaurant and a mountain cottage.

Numerous visitors from year to year, testify that Ivan’s riverbeds – a place which is very quiet and unusually relaxing, not only during the summer months, when the guests enjoy in the exquisite shadows and the famous well water, but also in the winter – on the snow, when on the slopes of Ivan’s riverbeds, everything is filled with children of pre school or school age, that want to ski, and sleigh ride, are a very interesting and amusing destination.

The area that is enclosed by the Ivan’s riverbeds is covered with rich forest, which especially attracts various researchers: geographers, zoologists, archeologists, and especially botanists. In the recent years more and more often on the space of Ivan’s riverbeds, good connoisseurs of herbs also stay, and they often pick healing and aromatic herbs like: Klamath weed, thyme, vermouth, heath, primrose… The vacation area Ivan’s riverbeds are loved by both adults and children, because the space under green forests is so attractive, that the excursions with tourists or individual visitors stay there for several hours. With the rest from the drive towards Lovcen or from Lovcen, the passengers usually stop in the restaurant or in the resting home on Ivan’s riverbeds to dine and have suitable refreshment.

 

NJEGUSI – Those who have visited Lovcen or Cetinje several times know that the tourist itinerary is best completed, when after the visit if Ivan’s riverbeds and the mausoleum on Lovcen you go towards Njegusi, the birth place of Petar II Petrovic Njegos, and the rest noblemen of the dynasty Petrovic.

There is also Njegos`s birth house that is turned into museum, but in that village is also the famous school which used to famous by the education of people from Cetinje, and it is marked with tourist signs.

In the recent period Njegusi are famous for the production of the famous cheese from Njegusi, smoked ham and dried goat cheese from Njegusi. In this mountain lodgment, at the 900 meter above sea level, the high quality honey and the nice refreshing drink mead are produced. That is why the tourist groups always stop in this lodgment and taste the specialties from Njegusi. From this area a long time ago the tasteful Njegusi steak has become well known and it won numerous European restaurants.

Above Njegusi, on Bukovica, there is an old Montenegrin tavern “Kod Pera” (at Pero`s), the ownership of the family Milosevic, who opened the first guest house in Montenegro. The buses and cars that are coming back from Cetinje or they are coming from Kotor or Tivat stop here regularly.

In the very Njegusi there are about 50 houses, a rest home, a restaurant “Njeguska sijela” (seats from Njegusi), many places for drying smoked ham and an inn. The houses are built from stone, and the newer ones used more modern materials and elements. Along the asphalt road that goes through the lodgment Njegusi you will come across the written notices that except in the restaurants, the famous Njegusi smoked ham and cheese, but also grape brandy and vine you can buy directly from the households in the nearby lodgment. If you decide for such a trip, your knowledge about the Montenegrin history, tradition, and culture will be a marvelous experience.

 

CETINJE MONASTERY – it is a place which inevitably you have to visit during your first acquaintance with Cetinje. Cetinje monastery is one of the most frequently visited religious centers of the town.

Up to the Cetinje monastery it is not hard to get. When from the center of Cetinje you direct yourself towards the King’s castle, you just go a little bit further, turn right and passing by the monastery on Cipur you are reaching the Cetinje monastery. The tourists, as well as religious people, first bow to the remains of the St Peter or they just observe the interior of the monastery. Apart from the gorgeous icons, iconostasis, reliquaries, impressive and mystical appears the chest in which the remains of the above mentioned saint are kept and they are covered with the dark red waterproof cloth, on which one golden cross is put. That place seems both spiritual and mystical but also obligating for all those whose choice is to visit this destination.

Cetinje monastery is situated in the foot of the Orlov krs, in the place on which, as it is thought, the castle of Ivan Crnojevic was situated, for whom it is believed that he is the founder of Cetinje. In the shop of the monastery you can buy various souvenirs, candles, church items, rosaries, holy oil, incense, books with prayers and Orthodox study as well as many other souvenirs.

Cetinje monastery was built in 1701. in the period of governance of Danilo Petrovic, a spiritual and secular ruler of the former Montenegro, who has built into the monastery the architectonic elements from the ruined monastery of Crnojevic. Monastery complex became the center of the spiritual, cultural and political life of Montenegro. It was devastated several times by the Turks, but also it was renewed and added onto several times, mostly adjusted its architecture to the configuration of the terrain.

The last thorough renewal of the monastery lasted 2 years, and it happened in the period from 1925. to 1927. year.

The nucleus of the complex of that monastery is made of one transept church of modest dimensions dedicated to the Birth of the Holy mother of God, in which we have the iconostasis from the middle of the XIX century, a work of art of the Greek masters.

In the south choir of the church the reliquary with the remains of St Petar Cetinjski is placed, while next to the very entrance into the monastery there are graves of Prince Danilo and grand governor Mirko, the father of the King Nikola I Petrovic.

From the north side of the church, next to the rock there is the cell of St Peter’s, and south from the church two floor sleeping chambers were built. In the so called Njegos sleeping chambers, the monastery museum is placed, which by its richness and diversity of the exhibits is the most significant museum institution of that kind in Montenegro. Cetinje monastery, of the harmonious architectonic entity, better known as the monastery of St Peter’s, for years is the symbol of the Montenegrin spirituality, free thought and education.

 

NJEGOS`S BILLIARD POOL HALL – In the immediate vicinity of Cetinje monastery we can see that Njegos`s residence is situated, better known as Billiard pool hall, built in 1838. with a significant financial help of Russia, and by the plan of the Russian emissary architect Jakov Ozereckovski. In the beginning that place was called the New house, but soon after the arrival of the pool table in Cetinje, it got the name Njegos`s Billiard pool hall. Its appearance suits the architectonic concept of the medieval castle. Billiard pool hall has the shape of the rectangular stone building that has a floor; it is modestly processed, covered by lead, encircled with the big stone wall with the round towers in corners and with gates on all sides. In the Billiard pool hall there are 25 rooms, from which 11 of them are on the ground floor while 14 are on the upper floor.

The most interesting for tourists is the biggest of all rooms in the Billiard, in which today Njegos`s pool table is kept. The first pool in Cetinje came from Vienna in 1839. Its procurement was financed by Russia, with which Montenegro had even then very important and good diplomatic and military relations. Apart from the exquisite literary work, spiritual raising and diplomacy, Njegos was also a great lover of shooting and pool, in which he always had excellent results and very often won his opponents.

A certain number of rooms in the Billiard pool hall, Njegos used for his personal necessities, while a great many of them were used by the Senate, Montenegrin Prince’s guards and other state organs as well as for the staying of the prominent guests. Up to 1867, Billiard pool hall served as a residence, first to Prince Danilo, and then for a short time to Nikola. This famous building is mainly connected to Njegos. Beside the residential ones, Billiard pool hall served for the necessities of various state institutions. For a while Njegos`s printing shop operated, which was founded in 1834., then theology, high school and for a while girl’s institute. Also, Billiard pool hall at the end of the XIX century was used for accommodation of the Ministries and as a military institution. In those years two towers were removed.

In time, Billiard pool hall was rebuilt, and by that remodeling both exterior and the interior were changed, and the most significant change happened during the reign of Prince Danilo, when another building was built onto the existing one. At the beginning of the XX century a spacious edifice of the Military Ministry was also built. The most drastic changes Billiard pool hall experienced in 1910., when the fence and the remaining two towers were removed. With their removal they wanted to open the side views towards monastery. Still, on the celebration of 100 years of Njegos`s death in 1951., to Billiard pool hall its original appearance was restored. During the 1919./1917. from one side of the wall of the Billiard pool hall a relief map of Montenegro was placed. It was placed in the pavilion which has cut the wall of the fence. Since the restoration of that famous edifice in it Njegos`s and Ethnographic museum were founded. With the renewal of the Billiard pool hall, which occurred in 1979. after the catastrophic earthquake in Montenegro, the space of the Billiard id now used only as Njegos`s museum.

Billiard is protected by law as a monument of the 1st category in Montenegro.

RIVER CRNOJEVIC – on the 16th km on the road from Cetinje to Podgorica there is a visibly marked board, on which there is a road sign for River Crnojevic.

That area of Montenegro and Cetinje, will hardly be uninteresting for you, because in the past, especially in the period of the reign of King Nikola it was used as a winter king’s residence, and because of its unusual beauty and natural surrounding it got the name “Montenegrin Nice”. The beauty of River Crnojevic, no matter how well its beauty is described, it can hardly be imagined by anyone until one gets there and sees that for himself. Of that best speaks its more and more used name ‘Little Venice” on which quickly and easily almost all visitors and tourists got used to. It is best to go to River Crnojevic by your own car, rent – a car vehicle or taxi van. If you wish to come to River Crnojevic from Cetinje or from the Coast, and you are a passionate devotee of nature then it is best that you stop at the very turning towards the River Crnojevic, and easily walk down the curvy road to the very destination.

On River Crnojevic the time that has stopped and human oblivion have kept the beauty of the nature intact, but have also influenced that only ruins can now speak of the famous history of what used to be the strongest trading center.
River Crnojevic has its own very tempestuous but above all significant history for the people of Montenegro. Namely, that place at the beginning of the XV century was the capital city of the founder of Cetinje Ivan Crnojevic. The Orthodox bishopric was at that time moved from Vranjina (a place famous because of the shooting of the Montenegrin movies of the director Zivko Nikolic) to Obod, a hill above River Crnojevic.

Thirty years after Gutenberg, on Obod Cyrillic leaden letters were cast and the work of the first printing shop at south Slavs began.

On River Crnojevic there used to be a winter home of the famous Montenegrin dynasty Petrovic, because in this place there was almost no wind, and the climate was even milder than on the coast. The famous bridge across the river was built in 1853. by Prince Danilo, while the bigger bridge, that connects River with Virpazar was built by Prince Nikola in 1905.

During the XIX and at the beginning of the XX century River Crnojevic was the most important market in this part of the Balkans. On the Italian dining tables a product from these areas – dried bleak was much appreciated. In River all three confessions lived and traded happily, and the Muslims were thought to be the best tradesman.

A great fortune of this area were houses that were situated on the lake “eyes” (little pools) which there are many in this area and that are very rich with fish. Before the Balkan wars the River was filled with manufacture shops, and right here the first pharmacy in Montenegro was opened, as well as the first gun shop. In the factory “Marica” situated in River Crnojevic, the pearl made of fish scales was produced.

That River Crnojevic is a fishing place mainly, we can see by the fish factory “Ribastvo” (Fishing), which is found just next to the road towards it.
What used to be a trading and fishing borough, until recently it was very devastated, but it was renewed and a boardwalk was built, as well as Danilo`s bridge, and from both sides of the River the stone walls were constructed.
Tourists, everyday, especially during the summer gladly visit River Crnojevic. The devotees of nature, the funs of good photograph and unusual landscapes come here. Often on River Crnojevic they can stay for a whole day, and take pictures with their cameras without getting tired. The famous director Emir Kusturica and the world champion in canoe riding are frequent guests of River Crnojevic and especially the Dobrosko village, which is surrounded by small vineyards form whose type the famous vines and brandies of Montenegro are made. Fiord of the River Crnojevic, for years has been thrilling numerous individuals that are engaged in various types of art, and it is not strange that the motifs of the well known Danilo`s bridge on the River are found on the calendars, postcards and atlases that are found and bought all over the world.

If you take the wooden canoe and from the very nicely built port you set yourself out down the water you can ride in the direction of the famous place Karuc, where the well known summer cottage of St. Peter from Cetinje is placed, which even though it is neglected has something from the old times in itself.

In that area for ever the fishermen have been living. They have famous vineyards. For the refreshments and a break from the trip or the ride, in Karuc there is a small house – restaurant, with only 3 or 4 tables but rich and various meals are offered to tourists. Mostly that is fish from the River and red Montenegrin vine, which the owners of the restaurant make by themselves. When you are going through the River Crnojevic it is nice to visit the village Dodosi, in which famous clappers of the Montenegrin – French movie “The Unseen Miracle” of the director Zivko Nikolic were made. In the village there are unusually built houses, which lean one onto the other, and all over the area the smell of the fish, smoked or fried bream, or the well dried salty bleaks spreads around.

There are various initiatives for the revitalization of River Crnojevic. The new look of the River means the posing of the new drinking fountain on the place of the old one, the adaptation of the dilapidated green areas and the renewal of the facilities and houses. The local residents of the River Crnojevic are hoping that the asphalt road from the Wells to Obod will be made, so that the tourists and visitors could see the old mills, which will, instead for milling will serve to restaurant owners to make the attractive restaurants and places for rest
Also, on the locality called “Zabran Kralja Nikole” (The Ban of King Nikola), close to River Crnojevic, a part of the fence will be repaired and a house for the placement of the food and the watering halls will be built, which will be mostly used by the passionate hunters (safari – hunt) and numerous funs of game (venison), who will come to River to observe the deer game, with which the ban will be soon enriched. The reservation is rich with deers, and there is an idea with which that space could be turned into the ZOO. Until then we should enjoy in the things that River offers us now.

On River Crnojevic an unusual emotion is being created. Sometimes it is hard and sometimes it is easy to describe it. The peacefulness of the entire area blends into some weird tones. A divine is a feeling that reminds you to the spirits of the past times spiced with some strange peace, which is reinforced with the vision that is made by water that almost doesn’t flow. About that maybe the best witnesses are permanent residents of the sleepy River and its water: cattail, water mint, its beauty is best singled out by the fine leaves of white and yellow water lily, and below the fishing canoes the specimens pf lake fishes like: carp, bleak, eel, bream, salmonidae… can be found often. All of that is beautified with a green fiord and mild climate that sometimes knows to be even more pleasant than the coastal climate, because it is made by the mountain freshness and easiness of the south currents.

That tranquil of peace and nature, knows to be interrupted by some old fisherman or several of them, who going into their wooden canoes start spreading their nets or preparing harpoons, in order to skillfully catch the fish, and so on!